On a ridge between the Premier Cru vineyards of Montmains and Vaillons in Chablis lies the Pargues vineyard, from which this wine is sourced. Historically, this vineyard was also classified Premier Cru just like its immediate neighbors. After the First World War (and the ensuing devastation of Northern France), the vineyard fell into disrepair, and the vineyard was declassified down to basic Chablis. Funny thing about terroir though, you can change an area's name and its official status, but the soil and climate never change! All you need is the right person to come along and coax that terroir back into the bottle. The Servin family were just the people to do it. They replanted the vineyard after the Second World War, but not with just any old vines from the local nursery. Now, they selected the best vines already producing in their vineyards and used cuttings from those to plant the Pargues vineyard! And now, with 50 year old vines and a dedication to quality, the delights and complexities that are found in these bottles are virtually indistinguishable from its Premier Cru neighbors.
The 2019 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Sélection Massale is excellent, delivering aromas of orange oil, white flowers, pear and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated palate that's bright and chalky. It represents great value. Possesses fine quality for its level and is also worth trying. Around a third of this cuvée matures in used barrels, the rest in tank.
Wine of the Month for June 2022